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Va Bene |
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A Tradition of Fine Dining |
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Tradition
is revered not only in Judaism but by society as a whole. In fact, so universal
is the recognized value of established practical experience and the wisdom
that is gained from it, that tradition is many times considered tantamount
to law. Va Bene is a product of such a heritage. The Lattanzi family has
owned and operated restaurants for generations. Each generation was schooled
from infancy in all aspects of restaurateuring, starting with the most
menial tasks. This system of apprenticeship continues today setting the
formula for advancement for the restaurant’s staff. The Lattanzi tradition
has honed the meticulous attention to detail that is so characteristic
of their restaurants. This respect for detail reaches its pinnacle in the
unparalleled dining experience offered at Va Bene. Everything has a polish,
from the way the dishes are carried to the way the glasses are stored and
dried, resulting in professional pride that each member of the staff has
in his craft. The casual observer may overlook the extent of these efforts,
because they combine so seamlessly. But, for those diners who demand service
and quality from their restaurants, it is readily apparent and appreciated.
Thus, from Sicily to Rome to New York City, the Lattanzis have perfected
their talents, culminating with the contemporary generation’s five Lattanzi
siblings, all successful restaurateurs.
Guiseppi
Lattanzi, affectionately called Pipo (an Italian nickname) by his staff
and friends, is the only family member operating kosher restaurants. In
applying the Lattanzi family traditions to Va Bene, he has set the standard
by which all other restaurants, particularly kosher restaurants, must now
be measured. This infusion of a non-Jewish restaurant tradition into the
kosher restaurant industry has injected an expertise that was previously
sorely lacking. Not too long ago, speaking of kosher restaurants and fine
dining in the same breath would have inspired derisive comments. Indeed,
entire comic routines have been built around the topic of Jewish restaurants,
service and food.
The
menu at Va Bene is guided by still another tradition, the cuisine of the
ancient Roman Jewish community. Stemming from that relatively poor community,
a simple cooking style arose that today can be appreciated for its reliance
on very fresh ingredients and unencumbered preparation. A good example
of this is the Carciofi Alla Guidia (artichokes Jewish style). The Carciofi
makes for a wonderful appetizer. Its fibrous center (choke) is scooped
out and its coarse outer leaves are trimmed, leaving the soft yet firm
middle leaves (heart), which are lightly sautéed in extra virgin
olive oil with garlic, then baked.
Mozzarella
Fresca (fresh mozzarella cheese) is often incorporated into Italian appetizers.
When prepared properly, the fresh cheese has a smooth flavor and a creamy
texture that is far different from the dry version ordinarily found in
pizzerias and supermarkets. In keeping with another Lattanzi tradition,
Va Bene makes its own fresh mozzarella cheese from curd. One appertizer,
Caprese (mozzarella with sliced tomatoes and red peppers) requires only
the freshest mozzarella be served within two hours of being made. This
is its limit for optimum texture and freshness. Beyond the two hours, the
cheese loses its softness and is then designated for cooked dishes only,
transforming into special treats antipasti like the Crostino Romano (baked
mozzarella topped with Marsala sauce, mushrooms and capers) and pizza.
My favorite is the Crostino Romano for its somewhat more complex marriage
of flavors and textures. Fresh mozzarella really does enhance the flavor
of any dish! My companion ordered a Carapaccio del Pescatore —a combination
of the Carpaccio di Salmone (salmon) and the Carpaccio di Tonno (tuna).
Both consist of very thin slices of fresh raw fish dressed in onions, capers,
lemon, olive oil, and greens. Although he enjoyed both, he felt the salmon
was the better tasting of the two.
The
Minestrone Dell’Ortolano (minestrone soup) at Va Bene has the thin consistency
without pasta, characteristic of this soup in Northern Italy. The vegetables
are fresh and the seasoning restrained. The Minestra Del Boscaiolo, on
the other hand, features pureed mushrooms which impart a somewhat
thicker consistency. Here you’ll find artfully applied seasonings that
blossom in your mouth. Although the seasonings have presence, they never
override the soup’s mushroom flavor.
Another
homemade specialty at Va Bene is the pasta. We sampled the Tortelloni
Al Funghi (large homemade tortelli filled with mushrooms and served in
a tomato sauce) and the Crespelle Agli Spinaci (crepes filled with ricotta
cheese, spinach and mozzarella). Of the two, the Crespelle, a thin crepe
that showcased its filling and had a lighter texture than the tortelli,
was my first choice. By this time, we were worried about getting too full,
so after a small sampling of the pasta we ordered our main courses.
My
entrée, the Salmone Incipollato, sautéed in a white wine
sauce with garlic and pearl onions was, I realized later, the same dish
I had chosen the last time I ate here. Once again, I was not disappointed.
The salmon was moist and tender, attractively presented with potato scallops
and sautéed carrots, and quite satisfying. My companion ordered
the Involtino Di Sogliola (Sole Rollatine with breadcrumbs, capers and
pine nuts) which he enjoyed equally well. A caveat about a third fish entrée
we sampled, the Tonno all’Aceto Balsamico. Because it is marinated in the
acidic vinegar, the fish is actually cooked twice: first by the acid, and
then by the heat in the broiler. Since this causes the dish to come out
medium to well done, it should not be ordered if you like your tuna a little
red inside.
To
conclude our feast, we asked the waiter for a platter with a variety of
desserts so we could sample a little of each. What we were served
was the mother of all desserts! Tiramisu, Napoleons, Flan, fresh strawberries
topped with cream, and something chocolate also topped with cream. Although
my usual favorite the light and creamy Tiramisu still won out, the fiery
red, plump and juicy strawberries were cooly refreshing, the flan was perfectly
prepared, and the creamy Napoleons gave stiff competition. Everything was
very fresh and delicious. You couldn’t go wrong with whichever one you
ordered. The desserts were so good in fact, we somehow managed to
finish them all. Espresso served with a glass of Sambuca provided the final
and very traditional Italian touch.
Just
a word about ambiance: Expect a relaxed formality with formal service.
The room exudes a Mediterranean air, elegant in its simplicity. Terra cotta
walls set against mahogany woodwork provide the backdrop for tables dressed
in white linen. Intimacy is created by dimmed lighting from original sconces,
while candles and seasonal flowers inspire romance. Seating is available
for 80 diners, some of which is located in a very small alcove in the back.
A full bar is located towards the front of the dining room.
Va
Bene, was previously a non-kosher establishment and became kosher about
9 years ago. A testament to its high level of achievement is the fact that
its previous non-kosher clientele continues to dine here. This loyalty
is reciprocated by Pipo who clearly loves his work and is involved with
every aspect of running his restaurants. The proof is this delightful restaurant. |
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