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Le Marais |
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En français, s’il vous plait
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Taken
right out of the paintings of Toulouse- Lautrec, the interior of
Le Marais imports the spirit of a French bistro to the heart of the theater
district, in mid-Manhattan. French posters, memorabilia, and a band of
mirror running around the room provide the backdrop in this large
but crowded restaurant. The lighting is dim enough to create a sense of
intimacy in the large space, yet still manages to be conducive to spirited
conversation, as well. Every element in Le Marais invites the diner to
be transported to a different frame of reference, one that bespeaks of
a causal, festive, very French milieu. With the city’s hectic, tumultuous
pace left outside, the diner is encouraged to give in to an almost existential
abandon, lured by the promise of good food, friendly surroundings, and
a French flare for detail and living life to the fullest. 11:00 p.m. on
a Tuesday night, when most other restaurants have closed, diners were still
sitting and eating.
The
ground floor dining room features a glass showcase, displaying various
cuts of extravagantly priced meat, as you enter. The bar follows, immediately
leading you to a staircase, and generally to a larger dining room in the
rear. In this back dining area, seating along the walls is banquette style,
and individual tables and chairs fill the center of the room. Crowded together,
the tables are covered with white tablecloths and topped with white butcher’s
paper. The stairs ascend to a second dining room with a more formal, private
club atmosphere. The upstairs is characterized by mahogany paneling and
leather chairs.
Our
meal began with two appetizers, the Portobello fumé et grillé
($8.25) and the Friand de Veau aux Champignons ($8.75). The Portobello,
described on the menu simply as smoked and grilled portobello mushrooms,
turned out to be a spinach salad with slices of the portobello mushrooms
interspersed within it. I would have liked more mushroom, but the salad
which was light and delicately seasoned was pleasant enough. The Friand
de Veau, veal turnover served with mushroom sauce, was likewise flavorful
and skillfully seasoned, but was a true appetizer and could not be mistaken
for a small entrée. For our entrées we ordered the Salade
de poulet grillé ($14.95) and the steak au poivre, frites ($23.50).
That the Salade de poulet grillé was a mistake was evident immediately.
The salade was essentially the same that had been served in the portobello
appetizer (except for a few pieces of tomato thrown in) and the slices
of chicken breast were very dry. The steak au poivre, which had been
ordered medium rare, was overdone and not as tender as it should
have been. Both dishes were sent back and, it should be noted, were taken
back graciously. Herein lies the true test of a good restaurant: its desire
to please its customers. We ordered different entrées.
This
time my companion opted for La Surprise (what isn’t?) ($23.50). I, wanting
to steer clear of another salad, chose La côte de veau ($29.50).
La Surprise, which is described simply as the "butcher’s cut," turned out
to be a thick but small square of steak (a fillet mignon want-to-be). This
time the order was correctly prepared, medium rare, as requested. The meat
was tender and of good quality. The fries, which had been freshly made
with the first order, this time arrived reheated. The côte de veau,
a single veal chop, was served with mashed potato and spinach. The veal
was tender and made perfectly well. My only complaint is in the size of
the portion. I suspect that a hungry diner with a large appetite could
come away feeling unsatiated. The side dishes complemented the meat well
enough and did not compete for attention. By this time it was twelve midnight
and although admittedly we were not being pressed to leave, we did
not want to hurry through dessert and so, we didn’t order any. However,
a quick look at the dessert menu leaves no doubt that we would not have
been disappointed. Though not extensive, the menu includes enough variety
to satisfy the sweet cravings of most noshers.
The
wine list offers a respectable choice of wines, scotch, single malts, beers
and whiskeys. Beers and single malts are particularly well represented.
The selection of wines favor the Baron Herzog collection, but also include
a few choices from the Weinstock Cellars.
So,
do I recommend Le Marais? My inclination is to say yes. Its proximity to
the theater district, its late closing time, its attractive atmosphere,
its generally high quality food, and its amenable attitude, make Le Marais
a desirable option for kosher diners. True, it is pricey, but for a uniquely
pleasant evening with French charm, Le Marais provides all the ingredients
for an enjoyable dining experience. |
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