Kosher Chinese

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		Esti Hana
		Kosher Chinese

Six months after its grand opening, Estihana, the Oriental restaurant at 221 West 79th Street, on the Upper West Side in Manhattan, is still evolving. Estihana has focused on combining an American service style with Oriental cooking. Catering to the tastes of the Upper West Side, the food has little oil and MSG, and is adapted somewhat to American palates. While the printed menu appears limited at first glance, the dishes are continually changing, a result of the Korean chef’s ingenuity. Also, complete menu overhauls reflecting seasonal foods and customer demands, are anticipated four times each year. The less adventurous are encouraged to request traditional favorites not necessarily on the menu, as customer satisfaction is the priority. One might suspect that with such a spectrum of dishes being prepared, the restaurant risks mastering none particularly well. However, a recent visit to this small restaurant (55 seats) has quelled such skepticism.

We sampled a variety of entrees from the lunch menu. The quality of the food in general is quite good, fresh, and carefully prepared, although the entrees were far better than the soups. The hot and sour soup was neither hot nor sour, and the Egg Ton Soup (Egg Drop Soup with wantons) had a pallor appearance. Strangely, the Egg Drop Soups were garnished with corn kernels, which compromised the authenticity of the dish and added an unusual, sweet flavor. The Mai Fun Soup, which needed the help of a little soy sauce, was chock full of Oriental vegetables and proved to be quite filling, although on its own it lacked any distinct flavor.

Of the main courses, the sushi was good and attractively presented. One unique variation is the introduction of a faux Crab (actually seasoned pollock), which is used where needed as in the California Rolls. Gomatori (Japanese), boneless chicken breast coated with sesame seeds in a mildly sweet sauce, and the Chi Chi Chicken (hybrid Chinese/Japanese) chunks of chicken breast mixed with Black Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots, Green Peppers, Ginger Scallions, & Honey Walnuts served in a not very spicy brown sauce; were flavorful. The selection of noodle dishes is ample and a unique distinction. The lunch-time portions are adequate for moderately hungry people. The dinner portions are somewhat larger.

One personal objection is the lack of extras. Don’t expect Chinese noodles, duck sauce, tea, or other accoutrements standard in other restaurants, without having to ask for them. Their justification for this is that the service is American, and this distinguishes them from a typical Chinese establishment. Frankly, I would question if this distinction is worthy of pursuing or one to strive for.

The Lunch Specials, are not on the printed menu. Remember to ask for them between the hours of 12:00pm - 3:30pm. $9.95 will buy you a Chinese meal which includes a choice of basic soups, entree, egg roll and white rice. The $13.50 Lunch Bento Box (Miso Soup, salad, and Sushi assortment) is also a bargain. The Early Bird Special, 3:30pm - 6:30pm is priced at $16.50 and includes the Soup of the Day, Sushi Appetizer and your choice of entree. Again, tea is not served automatically.

Aside from the fish tank and mirrors (coincidental to, but in this case, not actually inspired by feng shui interior design dictates), there is nothing in the decor to suggest the Oriental nature of the restaurant. That having been said, the setting is both pleasant and attractive. Surrealistic styled paintings with musical themes, dot the neutral toned walls outfitted with wood wainscoting. Tables are dressed with tablecloths and topped with paper, suggesting the desired bistro flavor, while background music complements the setting. Estihana is appropriate for both family and social occasions, and dress can range from casual to semi-formal.

Please note that the Dimple in Jackson Heights Queens has not been made kosher, as yet.


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