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Dimple |
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A Vegetarian's Delight
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Indian
food has never attained the popularity of Chinese cuisine in the Jewish
community. Perhaps it is because the food is thought of as being too exotic
or too spicy that kept it from achieving the kind of distinction it deserves.
However, as health concerns continue to drive ever-greater numbers of consumers
to eat low fat meals and to increase consumption of fruits and vegetables,
the demand for such exciting, good tasting cuisine is growing. In this
context, Dimple, midtown Manhattan&'s newest kosher vegetarian Indian restaurant,
is the answer to the kosher diner&'s dream. Open just a year and a half
ago, Dimple offers authentic Indian dishes prepared by a team of four chefs,
each specializing in his own region. Proprietor Arun Vadhan, who hails
from cosmopolitan Bombay explained that each region has its specialties
and is renown for its distinctive use of spices. The East, for example
is known for its desserts and snacks, the South for its rice and lentil
crepes (Dorsa), its steamed rice and lentil cakes (Idli), its fried lentil
flour donuts (Vada) and its rice and lentil flour pancakes (Uthappam).
These cakes, crepes, pancakes doughnuts are combined with a variety of
vegetables and are served with assorted "soups", sauces and dips for dunking.
Each
specialty is a theme with variations. Bread, for example, is not simply
bread. Baked in Tandoor ovens the pita-like breads come in choice of garlic,
mustard, potato, mint, onion, cheese, sesame, etc. Similarly, rice,
is not just rice. It comes in a variety of "flavors," Lemon, Dahl, Coconut,
Bagala, Tamrind, Tomato, Vegetable and the Dimple Special. The selection
of Uthappam includes Cheese, Carrot, Onion Chili, Masala, Mixed Vegetable
and so on.
The
diner is also struck by the complexity and richness of each dish, for example,
the Potato and Spinach Dorsa (a personal favorite) is prepared with cashews
and raisins and is intricately seasoned. Spices are balanced so that they
will not offend the most sensitive palates. Diners also have the option
of specifying how spicy they want their food.
We
sampled an array of vegetable entrees that come served with rice. The Dal
Makhani (Blackgram and soybean seeds cooked with onions in a tomato sauce),
Bhindi Dopiaza (Okra fingers cooked with chopped onion and Indian spices),
Mutter Paneer (homemade cheese, green peas, onion in tomato sauce), and
Aloo Palak (spinach and potatoes cooked with spices in a heavy cream) were
all very good and each was unique. Order a variety of dishes to sample
or come at lunchtime for the All You Can Eat Buffet when each day (Monday-Friday)
3 vegetable dishes, three breads, salads, sweets and rice are offered between
12pm-3pm. The hours between 3pm-6pm are “Munch Time” when various Vegetable
Sandwiches and Omelette Sandwiches (made with Chick-pea flour) are featured.
The “Omelettes” and crepes have no eggs in them and depend wholly on various
flours: rice, crushed wheat, chick-peas, etc. to hold them together. Eggs
and fish are never used.
The
culinary adventure continues with dessert. The Rose Falooda, the Indian
version of the ice cream soda consists of rose flavored ice cream that
is made in-house, served on top of rose flavored syrup drink that contains
noodle-like filaments and tiny gelatinous, spheres that roll on the tongue.
For the uninitiated, it is a strange, intriguing dish that one slurps to
the finish, even as one wonders at the strangeness of it all. It is actually
quite good and I’m told especially healthy for the heart. Lassi, a yogurt
fruit drink comes in assorted flavors, as do the milk shakes. In fact the
ice creams, cakes and beverages tend to have a healthful reliance on fresh
fruit and in some cases even vegetables (such as the Carrot Halva).
The
decor is a holdover of the previous Korean restaurant, but there is talk
of possibly expanding next door and of renovation in the near future. The
main dining room is a step above street level. Seating (capacity of 45)
is in booths where the tables are covered with tablecloths and topped with
glass. There is a second floor dining area that is used for overflow crowds
and doubles as a party room.
Please
note that the Dimple in Jackson Heights Queens has not been made kosher,
as yet. |
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