A Rising Star Among Kosher Chinese Restaurants

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		China Glatt
	A Rising Star Among Kosher Chinese Restaurants

How does a Chassidishe young man from Williamsburg, who admittedly knew nothing about running a restaurant and even less about Chinese cuisine, run Borough Park’s finest eatery? Surprisingly, the answer is very well! Sholom Witriol, China Glatt’s young entrepreneur laughs today when he remembers his introduction to Chinese food not so long ago. He had ordered Beef Chow Mien, without actually knowing what the dish was like and was so disappointed that he never returned to the restaurant. "It wasn't the restaurant's fault" he confides, it's just that he doesn't like Chow Mien, even from his own establishment. Yet, in spite of that inauspicious first experience, Sholom recognized both the need for a first rate restaurant in Borough Park and the lack of good Chinese cuisine.

Today, five years later, after eating countless meals in kosher Chinese restaurants throughout the city, observing thereby what and what not to do, visiting restaurant and food shows, and studying cookbooks, Sholom speaks with authority and obvious delight about the food served at his restaurant. He continues expanding his expertise and is always on the lookout for a new recipe. Recently he has initiated weekly specials at China Glatt to spotlight both new dishes and the cooking talents of the restaurant's three Chinese chefs! Each chef specializes in the food of the region in China that he comes from, ensuring the authenticity of the dishes.

Understanding and never losing sight of his customers' needs, Sholom makes certain that the food served at China Glatt will not offend the taste buds of the heimishe diners who frequent China Glatt by allowing some accommodations. Curry, for example, is used with restraint, while chili peppers have been eliminated completely. At the same time, however, taste is never sacrificed. Sauces are always rich, full-bodied and distinctive.

Having had several meals here, I am struck by the fact that the food is consistently fresh and the quality high. Portions are generous enough to leave most diners satiated. Taking nothing for granted, however, Sholom keeps a watchful eye on his customers. Remembering his own first experience with Chinese cuisine, he will gladly change the order of anyone seeming to be disappointed. This does not happen very often and when it does, it is frequently because of the diner's unfamiliarity with the cuisine. In the rare times that Sholom is absent, Mr. Zeitlin, the manager is there to insure satisfaction. This is particularly important to note, since the Chinese waiters have a limited mastery of English and complaining to them would result in polite smiles, but not much else.

The illustrated and descriptive menu leaves nothing to chance. Besides the usual chicken, beef, veal, duck, fish, and vegetarian favorites, there are Diet (basically steamed dishes), American (steaks, cutlets, grills) and Kids’ menus offered to keep just about everyone happy.

On our most recent visit, our orders included dishes from both the regular menu and the weekly specials. We started with the Pu Pu Platter for the appetizer. The platter assortment includes skewered beef, BBQ Spare Ribs, Beef Egg Rolls, Fried Wontons, Buffalo Chicken Wings, and Chicken Toast. Everything was delicious, but I particularly enjoyed the Chicken Toast. It was tender and juicy and yielded a superb flavor. The chicken was covered by a perfectly seasoned crust with a delightful crispy texture.

Soup followed, Egg-ton for me, and Matzoh Ball for my companion. The Egg-ton, a combination of Egg Drop and Wonton Soup was familiar and very satisfying. The matzoh ball, that quintessential Jewish delicacy, was prepared in the traditional Jewish style by the Chinese chef. My companion, a self proclaimed aficionado, declared the matzoh balls to be perfect, from their measured and precise spherical shape to their light and fluffy consistency.

Sizzling Steak Kew, a Chef’s Specialty entree was ordered along with Roast Veal with Mixed Vegetables and Chicken with Baby Squash, the specials of the week. The Steak Kew, cubes of steak served on a sizzling platter with watercress, pea pods, carrots, baby corn and bamboo shoots in a house special sauce is a favorite of mine. This time, however, I must admit that the Roast Veal stole the show. Its preparation explains why. The prime veal cuts are soaked to remove most of the salt, marinated for two days in BBQ sauce, slow roasted in a smoke oven, and finally sautéed with vegetables in a sauce that is seasoned to taste. The slow roasting process locks in juices and flavor. This delicious dish has become so popular that it makes repeated appearances on the Specials menu. The Chicken with Baby Squash, it turned out, was making its Special Menu debut. It is an interesting dish, a recipe in progress actually, made of thin cut baby chicken lightly battered and sautéed with various vegetables, baby corn, mushrooms, pea pods, sometimes including carrots and onions and, of course, is replete with whole baby squash that give the dish its distinctive character. Served in a tomato-based sauce, the dish is a medley of contrasting flavors and textures. If you like squash, you'll love this dish!

Desserts range from sensible Pineapple Chunks or Leechee Nuts to a choice of sinfully rich and creamy (parve, of course) pastry. In a rare show of constraint, helped by the fact that we couldn't possibly eat another thing, we refrained from ordering dessert on this occasion. Diners with a sweet tooth, however, can rest assured that they will not be disappointed with the pastry selection.

As Sholom continues to develop his expertise in Chinese cuisine, China Glatt grows in attractiveness and its ability to serve the community. Renovations in the past year have produced a smart new restaurant façade, as well as a new ceiling, new bathrooms and mahogany entry. The improvements are ongoing and the already pleasing peach, beige and hunter green interior continues to evolve to ever lovelier heights. The restaurant can accommodate 85 diners in its dining room, which is a step above street level. Table linens, chandelier and wall sconce lighting, and the formal service encourage a semi formal atmosphere. On the second floor, another room seating 70 serves as a party room and has proved to be a popular site for Shevah Brochas and other festive occasions. China Glatt also offers off-premises catering and has recently even ventured to the high seas to serve a party on a yacht to enthusiastic acclaim. Gift certificates are a thoughtful and delicious present now available at China Glatt.

Sholom's receptive nature and willingness to learn has made him China Glatt's greatest asset as well as its proprietor. Under his watchful eyes, the restaurant promises to continue providing not only the best in kosher Chinese cuisine, but also a catalyst for exciting new Oriental dishes


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