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Ariel's |
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A Delicious Transition
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Jeffrey Nathan has done it again! After moving the popular Abigeal's to larger quarters
(now located at 1407 Broadway, bet. W.38th St.-W.39th St.), renowned Chef Nathan has gifted NYC with another top rate restaurant, this time going dairy.
Ariel's, as the new restaurant is called, affords Mr. Nathan the opportunity to show off his agility and finesse with creams, creamy sauces, and cheeses,
something Abigeal's could never do.
With
a whole new and expanded palette at Chef Nathan's disposal, it is not surprising
that his sauces form the crowning glory of almost every dish he has created
and prepared here. It is interesting to note that each sauce has its own
unique character and fabulously delicious flavor. The Marsala wine with
a hint of cream, finished with fresh herbs and Parmesan sauce of the very
delicious Wild Mushrooms Under Glass (appetizer) is nothing like the white
wine cream sauce (with red snapper, salmon, sea bass and fresh basil) of
the Fettuccine with Seafood (pasta). Very different from either of these
two, is the Parmesan cream sauce in the Amori Pentola (with wild mushrooms,
broccoli and roasted bell peppers) another pasta dish. The beurre blanc
sauce (with cilantro and citrus), the base of the Chilean Sea Bass (a special
of the day but frequent addition to the menu) likewise had a totally different
flavor. It is evident that each sauce is created especially for that particular
dish which it is meant to enhance. This attention to detail and appreciation
of the interplay of ingredients stands as an incomparable feature of Chef
Nathan's cooking. Each dish is a creative work of art that stands on its
own merits. You could conceivably come across a combination that does not
suit your personal taste, but you will never feel that anything served
here was haphazardly put together or that a stock sauce was prepared that
would appear on just about everything on the menu. Indeed, the feeling
that each dish was prepared for you individually is a very compelling element
in the Ariel's dining experience.
My
appetizer, the Wild Mushrooms Under Glass came in a hefty portion that
was brimming with mushrooms and swimming in the delicious sauce. It arrives
at the table under glass (alas its name) that when it is lifted releases
a wonderfully rich aroma that gets your mouth salivating even before the
first mouthful. I savored this delicacy while my companion appreciated
the Tex Mex soup. A sampling of the soup revealed a nice mix of vegetables
with a "mildly" hot flavor that delivered its moderate kick after it was
swallowed.
In
order to get a good overview of the pasta selection, we ordered four different
pasta dishes. My favorite was the Conchiglie with Smoked Mozzarella, a
combination of a plum tomato sauce with roasted eggplant, basil and house
made smoked Mozzarella. The Mozzarella was super fresh, had a smooth
rich consistency and a flavor that was out of this world. The tomato
base also set this dish apart in a refreshing delicious way. The Fettuccine
with Seafood, mentioned above, came in a close second on my favorite list.
With a good portion of it dedicated to chunks of red snapper, salmon, and
sea bass, it is a meal in itself. With all that fish, you would expect
the dish to have some "fishiness" to it, but it doesn't. Steeped
in its white wine cream sauce with fresh basil, the fish and the fettuccine
combine to form an exciting dish with a wealth of textures and flavors.
The Amori Pentola, pasta in Parmesan cream sauce with wild mushrooms, broccoli
and roasted bell peppers and the Fusilli with Sautéed Mushroom and
fennel in pink sauce (a special that day) were equally impressive and will
not disappoint. In fact, my companion rates the Fusilli at the top of his
favorite list.
Fish
dishes dominate the entree selection offering a good variety: Salmon, Sea
Bass, Tuna, Red Snapper, Brook Trout, Sole, and Tilapia. My companion ordered
the Telapia San Pedro, a pan seared fish with sweet bell peppers, onions,
potatoes and tomatoes, spiced with New Mexican Chiles and served with pico
de gallo, avocado and grilled flour tortillas. Initially, his reaction
was one of disappointment as he felt that the dish was "spiced down" to
appeal to bland Jewish paletes. His opinion changed rapidly, however, when
the spices revealed their full force and commanded his attention. It was
with new found respect that he finished his entree. I don't enjoy
shocking my senses, so I opted for the Chilean Sea Bass with cilantro citrus
in a beurre blanc sauce. The fish arrives perched on a mound of sautéed
vegetables sitting in the sauce and surrounded with refreshing slices of
sweet orange. The fish is soft, moist and flaky on the inside and is covered
with a thin roasted crust. This is very light fish and eaten with the orange
slices, as opposed to the traditional lemon schpritz; a nice change of
pace. Fish can also be ordered simply grilled with sauces on the side for
those watching their calories.
Our satiated appetites signaled that it was time for dessert. Desserts at Ariel's
are not taken lightly. Although, he now has to divide his time between
Abigeal's and Ariel's, we are told that Chef Nathan personally prepares
all desserts himself. This pride of work and joy of cooking pays off. The
diner cannot go wrong with whatever he or she chooses. The
dessert menu ranges from a fresh fruit or Trio of Sorbets to Chocolate
Truffle Torte and Lemon Mascapone Mousse. In the interest of research
for this review, of course, we ordered three desserts. The now obligatory
Tiramisu, espresso soaked ladyfingers with mascarpone cheese, rum and cocoa,
finished with caramel and chocolate sauces was a tour de force. Rum has
a more than usual strong presence here, so be forewarned. The Cheesecake,
an Ariel's signature piece, features changing toppings throughout the week.
Our order came with a mango sauce and sprinkled with coconut. The
cheesecake is very creamy and though I had my doubts, the mango sauce turned
out to be a really nice complement. As terrific as these desserts
were, however, my greatest praise must go to the Raspberry and Blueberry
Torte with Vanilla Sauce. It was seemingly the best of all worlds,
the marriage of plump and sweet fresh fruit on pastry with a perfect sauce!
The cake quickly disappeared.
Diners who frequented the original Abigeal's will not find a drastic change of
decor. The coral walls have given way to shades of sea foam green, which
tie in with the carpeting and the comfortable upholstered chairs. The coral
hue, however, still maintains a presence in the form of recessed display
areas that band along the walls. White table linens provide both a formality
and a crisp visual contrast. As before, the room, with its high ceiling,
has a spaciousness and graciousness that easily accommodates seating for
70. Still, the restaurant manages to maintain an intimate feel with
the use of subdued lighting and with the help of two huge floral arrangements
that effectively divide the dining room into two. There is no one perceptible
decorative theme in the potted plantings, a series of plates arising in
relief along one section of the wall, ceramic fish, etc. Some accessories
suggest a Mexican influence, but others could be perceived as modern or
even deco. The general effect is upscale and sophisticated, yet understated
with an air of relative tranquility that is broken only by the sound of
light contemporary music piped in.
Service
plays an important role in any dining experience. Our waiter at Ariel's
was Michael and I note his name here because his expertise and professionalism
really contributed to the enjoyment of our meal. Yes, he knew who we were,
but I observed his manner at other tables he was serving and there was
no difference that I could detect. And frankly, you can't fake knowing
your business. Service colors a diner's perception of a restaurant first
hand. Their choice of staff is further evidence of their high regard for
their patrons.
Ariel's
has all the right "stuff" that you'd want in a restaurant. The gourmet
food, the elegant upscale ambiance, the friendly service and the great
midtown location. And as if that was not enough, after 7pm there's plenty
of parking on the street, as well. Whether its for a business lunch, social
dinner or just a treat for yourself anytime, Ariel's will not disappoint. |
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