Blazing New Trails in Kosher Dining

	Abigael's
	Blazing New Trails in Kosher Dining

Abigael's embodies the new and exciting direction that contemporary kosher cuisine appears to be taking, a departure from traditional East European and Middle Eastern cuisine to food that is refreshingly original and decidedly American. Jewish cuisine at Abigael's is, thus, being redefined. It is characterized more by what can be accomplished within kashrut parameters, rather than by its restrictions or limitations. It incorporates contemporary regard for healthful eating as it rejects the importance of the obligatory “schmaltz” that was pervasive in traditional cooking.

In no small measure, the uniqueness and success of this trail blazing restaurant stems from the talent and commitment of Jeffrey Nathan, its master chef and part owner. A graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (the other CIA), and a veteran of over 22 years experience (mostly non-kosher), Mr. Nathan views the restrictive laws of kashrus as inspiring points of departure, rather than hindrances. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are the instruments of his creativity, while his use of interesting and unexpected combinations of ingredients inspires a sense of culinary adventure that never ceases to surprise. Mr. Nathan, however, doesn't dwell on limitations or rest with traditional platitudes. While certain popular dishes remain menu staples, his "Truly Special Specials" menu offers a constantly changing venue of dishes and serves as an outlet for the chef's creative impulses.

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, Award Winning Venison Chili, and Brazilian Brisket started our meal off. Of the three appetizers, the Venison Chili (slowly smoked with Hickory, combined with onions, tomatoes, and beans) was the most noteworthy. Although only venison is specified in the name, the chili is actually made with four different meats: venison, veal, beef, and ground beef (not listed in any specific order) for their different textures and mix of flavors. Tempered by a perfect balance of seasonings, the flavor was full-bodied, without being too spicy. As the first place winner in the James Beard House chili contest for which it was originally created, the Chili, the only kosher entry, was victorious over a field that included some very formidable competitors. Indeed, the award was well deserved, as the appetizer proved to be the quintessential kosher chili.

The Portobello Mushrooms (served with caramelized roasted onions, field greens, roasted peppers, garlic and herbed oils) and the Brazilian Brisket (cooked crispy with onions, peppers and cilantro, surrounded by a black bean pepper sauce served on mashed potato) were not as inspired, but should not disappoint. However, the Soup of the Day, clear turkey broth with celery, carrots, and noodles however, was less to our liking.

Feeling we should sample a pasta dish, we ordered the Linguine with Wild Mushrooms (roasted peppers, broccoli, elephant garlic & extra virgin olive oil). I found the dish a bit too peppery, to the point of being overpowered. My hot spice loving companion, however, had no such complaints. In truth, I applaud Mr. Nathan's uncompromising attitude in his use of various peppers. Most kosher restaurants sacrifice originality and authenticity, by capitulating to their consumers’ lack of savoir-faire. This does not result in good food, but rather dull and diluted recipes. However, I would have liked better indication as to the black and hot pepper contents of this dish, so that my order could have been more informed.

The three entrees sampled included a meat, chicken and fish: Abigael's Marinated Rib Eye Steak, the Southwestern Spiced Chicken Paillard, and a daily special, Candied Salmon, respectively. The Abigael's Marinated Rib Eye Steak (char-grilled over Hickory and Oak, served with steak fries) was of a good size and its flavor was highly palatable. It should be noted, however, that although I had ordered it medium, it arrived more well done than I would have liked. Apparently, in anticipation of orders being sent back because the meat was “too raw,” medium orders are regularly interpreted to mean well done. Therefore, if you desire your meat rare or medium, you should be emphatic about it.

The Chicken Paillard (char-grilled with a mango salsa, sweet potato fries and spicy Cayenne vinaigrette) is one dish that typifies what makes Abigael's so unique. Once in the mouth, the sauce evolves from the initial sweetness of the mango flavor, gives way to the bite of the cayenne pepper and finishes with a refreshing vinaigrette cleanse. This elegant combination of ingredients and the depth of the resulting sauce, produces a wonderful dish you won't find anywhere else. Served in a nice sized portion, it is, thus, satisfying in more ways than one.

The salmon (char grilled, glazed and served with mixed vegetables) became another instant favorite. Char-grilled, the fish maintained its moisture on the inside, while the seared outside contributed its charred flavor. Its texture remained light and flaky. Added to this was a medley of seasonings, which provided an excellent complement. Simply put, the result was delicious fish. Although this selection was a “Special,” one can reasonably infer from its skillful preparation, that other fish offerings on the menu would be similarly successful.

Dessert consisted of helpings of the apple tart and the Chocolate Mud Pie, chosen from a list that included names like Chocolate Devastation and Chocolate Indulgence. The desserts are as visually tempting as they are delicious in taste and should not be missed.

Located in mid Manhattan, Abigael's is an attractive, sophisticated setting that can easily host any occasion, from smaller business lunches to larger social occasions. Spacious, because of its high ceiling, and elegant, in its restrained, post modern, coral and white décor, the restaurant exudes an upscale ambiance. Accommodating up to 90 diners, the service is formal and attentive. However, returns, as house policy, are not received well. This attitude arises from the chef's concern about the integrity of his cuisine and his feeling that this integrity should be respected. Our waiter, privy to whom he was serving, was not only friendly, but informed, which is not always a given in kosher restaurants. Indeed, this attribute is often crucial in determining the success of one's restaurant experience and I often ask what the waiter recommends.

Abigael's, at its finest, showcases cuisine that displays unbridled yet skillful combinations of ingredients. Present throughout is Mr. Nathan's appreciation and understanding of food and the interaction between a wide range of spices. It is both the complexities of his sauces and their almost whimsical, unexpected applications that make Mr. Nathan such an intriguing chef. In the end, it is his unfettered and creative spirit that gives Mr. Nathan's cuisine such unique and colorful expression. Although the dishes served here are generally appealing, for the more adventurous diner, Abigael's is truly a find.

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