The Sequel

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		Abigael's
		The Sequel

Fans of the popular restaurant on East 37th Street will be happy to learn that a new Abigael’s has recently opened on Broadway slightly further north between 38th and 39th Streets. Although they share the same name and some of the menu selections, this new endeavor has its own distinct character.

At street level, you'll find the "café," a less formal extension of the main restaurant below. It has its own "café menu," that includes salads, sandwiches, and the award wining Bison Chili, amongst other Abigael’s specialties. Anything from the menu downstairs may also be ordered upstairs. A large, fully stocked bar dominates the room on one side while covered tables, some with banquette seating, complete out the other. It is easy to visualize the 45 seats filled with a lunchtime office crowd or with people unwinding after work over a quick bite or drink before trekking home. For those who so desire, smoking is permitted here

Downstairs, the setting changes dramatically. To get there you can either use the stairs, prominently situated near the entry of the restaurant or you can take the elevator from the main lobby of the office building of the same address. The restaurant dining room is introduced by way of a tastefully decorated anteroom that is refined and upscale, yet comfortable. Here diners are often greeted by part owner and host Harvey Riezenman while waiting to be seated. With 375 seats in this huge restaurant, however, the waiting time is usually kept to a minimum.

As large as it is, one is struck by the cozy and even intimate feel of the facility. This achievement is managed by an ingenious system of retractable partitions that offer numerous seating options ranging from private dining rooms for ten (in the “library”) to a catering hall for 375 sit down guests (or up to 600 for cocktails).

A liberal application of mahogany stained wood paneling, fabric wall covering, and traditional paintings (many of horses with or without riders and dogs) evokes an exclusive private club atmosphere. Carpeted throughout, the room maintains an elegant and peaceful tone that is reinforced by the non intrusive and highly professional staff. White table linens with maroon top cloths add to the formality of the decor. Wall sconces contribute to the ambient lighting in a subdued rhythmic pattern along the walls.

The concept behind the restaurant decor was to create an upscale, yet homelike milieu. Touches like raised paneled wood doors on the bathroom stalls (to avoid the appearance of public bathrooms) are an indicative of the care and attention to detail of Abigael’s operating approach. For the diner, the results provide a visually satisfying environment that is a perfect complement to fine dining.

We began by sampling four different appetizers: the Smoked Salmon Wrap (house smoked salmon, alfalfa sprouts, tomato salsa & avocado dressed with horseradish remoulade in a flour tortilla), the Thai Noodles (stir fried vegetables & grilled chicken tossed with a peanut-coconut sauce), the Shrimp Cocktail (grilled shrimp with a classic cocktail sauce and fresh horseradish), and finally, the Soup of the Day (Minestrone). All the appetizers arrived on unique triangular dinnerware (except for the soup) artfully arranged in imaginative configurations. My favorite, the Salmon Wrap, is a potpourri of exciting flavors and textures that explode in the mouth as one bites through the soft, thin walled tortilla. Not liking spicy food, I passed up the salsa, which the wrap didn't actually need. Don’t let words like tortilla and salsa fool you, this is not a Mexican dish, but rather a typical Jeffrey Nathan creation.

Jeffrey Nathan, part owner and Master Chef, has a knack for combining unexpected ingredients and inventing dishes that become instant classics. This willingness to experiment and to forsake the mundane, results in cuisine that is both intriguing and a delightful culinary adventure and has become his trademark. (Who else would think of putting peanuts and coconut together in a sauce for grilled chicken?) Add to that Mr. Nathan’s understanding and mastery of spices and the result is cuisine that is complex and enjoys a richness of depth that makes it truly unique. The dishes are so distinctive, each can be a signature dish of the restaurant in its own right.,

Making their debut on this menu, all the appetizers were equally successful. The Shrimp Cocktail is actually made of Pollack fish that is transformed to look like the real thing. It is accompanied with an authentic cocktail sauce that has a little zest to it and which was an instant favorite for my companion.

Although many of the dishes that are popular on 37th Street have been incorporated into this menu, a significant addition here is the Argentine menu. The selection includes steaks (Boneless Rib, Short Ribs of Beef, Tenderloin & 26 oz. Rib), Veal Chops, and a Chicken Breast and Tenderloin Combo. All are served on a wooden plank with chopped salad (essentially lettuce), steak fries, and three distinctive dipping sauces. We ordered the Boneless Rib Steak, the house “signature classic.” It is slowly smoked using a combination of hickory and cherry woods (as are the Veal Chops & the Short Ribs) lending a unique and robust flavor to the meat. The hefty portion is thick, yet tender and juicy. With a full bodied flavor and a texture that is absolutely fine, it is incredibly good! If you order nothing else, you must try this dish!

The Red Snapper Filet (oven roasted with a teriyaki glaze and wok charred vegetables), our second entrée, came from the original menu. The nice size portion is moist and flaky. Happily, the teriyaki glaze was distinctive, yet subtle enough not to overpower the fish. Fresh and crisp, the wok fried vegetables provided just the right counterpoint. The Snapper is quite good and should satisfy any fish lover.

Dessert was a journey of sinful delights. We devoured the Halvah Heaven, a playful invention consisting of layers of shaved halvah, fresh berries, whipped cream covered with chocolate. We savored the Chocolate Devastation, a rich chocolate studded brownie sandwiched between chocolate fudge ice cream, drenched with hot fudge and topped with powered sugar & cocoa. Finally, we cleansed our palates with the fresh and sweet seasonal Fresh Fruit, which is served in a frosted dessert glass. Don't pass up dessert, it is a perfect ending to a terrific meal and is simply too good to be missed.

Our visit concluded with a tour of the state of the art stainless steel kitchen with the deservedly proud Mr. Nathan. With this new Abigael’s, Mr. Nathan has elevated kosher cuisine and operating standards to a new and thoroughly professional level. In creative scope and in the overall dining experience that it offers its diners, Abigael’s rivals the best of restaurants.


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