Guiseppi Lattanzi, affectionately called Pipo (an Italian nickname) by his staff and friends, is the only family member operating kosher restaurants. In applying the Lattanzi family traditions to Va Bene, he has set the standard by which all other restaurants, particularly kosher restaurants, must now be measured. This infusion of a non-Jewish restaurant tradition into the kosher restaurant industry has injected an expertise that was previously sorely lacking. Not too long ago, speaking of kosher restaurants and fine dining in the same breath would have inspired derisive comments. Indeed, entire comic routines have been built around the topic of Jewish restaurants, service and food.

The menu at Va Bene is guided by still another tradition, the cuisine of the ancient Roman Jewish community. Stemming from that relatively poor community, a simple cooking style arose that today can be appreciated for its reliance on very fresh ingredients and unencumbered preparation. A good example of this is the Carciofi Alla Guidia (artichokes Jewish style). The Carciofi makes for a wonderful appetizer. Its fibrous center (choke) is scooped out and its coarse outer leaves are trimmed, leaving the soft yet firm middle leaves (heart), which are lightly sautéed in extra virgin olive oil with garlic, then baked.

Mozzarella Fresca (fresh mozzarella cheese) is often incorporated into Italian appetizers. When prepared properly, the fresh cheese has a smooth flavor and a creamy texture that is far different from the dry version ordinarily found in pizzerias and supermarkets. In keeping with another Lattanzi tradition, Va Bene makes its own fresh mozzarella cheese from curd. One appertizer, Caprese (mozzarella with sliced tomatoes and red peppers) requires only the freshest mozzarella be served within two hours of being made. This  is its limit for optimum texture and freshness. Beyond the two hours, the cheese loses its softness and is then designated for cooked dishes only, transforming into special treats antipasti like the Crostino Romano (baked mozzarella topped with Marsala sauce, mushrooms and capers)  and pizza. My favorite is the Crostino Romano for its somewhat more complex marriage of flavors and textures. Fresh mozzarella really does enhance the flavor of any dish! My companion ordered a Carapaccio del Pescatore —a combination of the Carpaccio di Salmone (salmon) and the Carpaccio di Tonno (tuna). Both consist of very thin slices of fresh raw fish dressed in onions, capers, lemon, olive oil, and greens. Although he enjoyed both, he felt the salmon was the better tasting of the two.

The Minestrone Dell’Ortolano (minestrone soup) at Va Bene has the thin consistency without pasta, characteristic of this soup in Northern Italy. The vegetables are fresh and the seasoning restrained. The Minestra Del Boscaiolo, on the other hand, features pureed mushrooms  which impart a somewhat thicker consistency. Here you’ll find artfully applied seasonings that blossom in your mouth. Although the seasonings have presence, they never override the soup’s mushroom flavor. 

Another homemade specialty at Va Bene is the pasta.  We sampled the Tortelloni Al Funghi (large homemade tortelli filled with mushrooms and served in a tomato sauce) and the Crespelle Agli Spinaci (crepes filled with ricotta cheese, spinach and mozzarella). Of the two, the Crespelle, a thin crepe that showcased its filling and had a lighter texture than the tortelli, was my first choice. By this time, we were worried about getting too full, so after a small sampling of the pasta we ordered our main courses. 

My entrée, the Salmone Incipollato, sautéed in a white wine sauce with garlic and pearl onions was, I realized later, the same dish I had chosen the last time I ate here. Once again, I was not disappointed. The salmon was moist and tender, attractively presented with potato scallops and sautéed carrots, and quite satisfying. My companion ordered the Involtino Di Sogliola (Sole Rollatine with breadcrumbs, capers and pine nuts) which he enjoyed equally well. A caveat about a third fish entrée we sampled, the Tonno all’Aceto Balsamico. Because it is marinated in the acidic vinegar, the fish is actually cooked twice: first by the acid, and then by the heat in the broiler. Since this causes the dish to come out medium to well done, it should not be ordered if you like your tuna a little red inside.

To conclude our feast, we asked the waiter for a platter with a variety of desserts so  we could sample a little of each. What we were served was the mother of all desserts! Tiramisu, Napoleons, Flan, fresh strawberries topped with cream, and something chocolate also topped with cream. Although my usual favorite the light and creamy Tiramisu still won out, the fiery red, plump and juicy strawberries were cooly refreshing, the flan was perfectly prepared, and the creamy Napoleons gave stiff competition. Everything was very fresh and delicious. You couldn’t go wrong with whichever one you ordered. The desserts were so good in fact, we somehow  managed to finish them all. Espresso served with a glass of Sambuca provided the final and very traditional Italian touch. 

Just a word about ambiance: Expect a relaxed formality with formal service. The room exudes a Mediterranean air, elegant in its simplicity. Terra cotta walls set against mahogany woodwork provide the backdrop for tables dressed in white linen. Intimacy is created by dimmed lighting from original sconces, while candles and seasonal flowers inspire romance. Seating is available for 80 diners, some of which is located in a very small alcove in the back. A full bar is located towards the front of the dining room.

Va Bene, was previously a non-kosher establishment and became kosher about 9 years ago. A testament to its high level of achievement is the fact that its previous non-kosher clientele continues to dine here. This loyalty is reciprocated by Pipo who clearly loves his work and is involved with every aspect of running his restaurants. The proof is this delightful restaurant.
 

Restaurant: Va Bene

Address: 1589 2nd Ave. NY, NY (bet. E.82nd St. & E. 83rd St.)

Telephone: (212) 517-4448

Hechsher: OU (Cholov Yisroel)

Hours: Sun-Thurs: Lunch: 12am – 3pm (Winter)      11am-3pm (Summer)
 

Charge Cards Accepted: AmEx

Handicap Info: Dining room two steps above street level, bathrooms are on basement level. No special handicap accommodations.