River Delight
A Delight In the Bronx
       
I'm often asked about where one can find a really good glatt kosher deli. If you can make your way to the Bronx, or more specifically to Riverdale, the site of the northernmost Orthodox Jewish community in NYC, you will not be disappointed. Stop at Riverdelight Delicatessen & Middle Eastern Restaurant and say hello to the Israeli owner Uri and his wife at this "Mom and Pop" establishment where the husband manages and the wife does the cooking. Make yourself comfortable in one of their two narrow but pleasant dining rooms and don't hesitate to order their deli sandwiches. We sampled the corned beef and the pastrami, the quality of which was among the best we've eaten. Both meats were lean, sliced very thin and had perfect texture and flavor. The sandwiches are served with cole slaw and a pickle. Anyone concerned with salt intake , however, would be well advised to order something else. Happily, there is a lot "else" to choose from.
  
My companion and I sampled a wide variety of dishes and found that in general the food is"home cooked" and freshly made, with fresh ingredients. The Minestrone Soup, forexample, was particularly hardy and brimming with vegetables, Neapolitan style. Similarly, the Mushroom Barley soup was thick and had homemade flavor. The salads were crisp and dispensed in ample portions. The Cobb Salad is recommended (sliced grilled chicken breast served on a bed of tossed salad); the chicken was light, tender, juicy, and seasoned delicately. I found the Grilled Chicken Breast in Picatta Sauce, however, somewhat dry and peppered with too much enthusiasm for my taste. But, after having had the chicken in the Cobb Salad, I'm inclined to think that the dryness found here is not the norm. The seafood selection consisted of sole, red snapper and salmon. Our choice, the red snapper came broiled, accompanied by rice and green beans. The heimishe portionsare so filling, that you don't even miss dessert.
  
Other items available, but not tried on this visit, are the kabobs, steaks, BBQ (ribs or chicken), shawarma, fried chicken, burgers, Cous Cous, and assorted cooked specialties like Hungarian Goulash, Chicken Breast Cacciatore, Pasta Fettucini and Brisket Dinner. Deli sandwiches are either overstuffed or hot open. Falafel or grilled meats are served in either a plate or a pita. A children's menu for $4.95, makes this restaurant popular for family outings. It includes an entree, fries, salad and soda. The Early Bird Special (3:00pm-5:30pm) offers good value for $9.95 and consists of a cup of soup, entree with two side dishes and a beverage. For $7.95, the Luncheon Special (11am-3pm) gives you a choice of seven sandwiches, fries or a cup of soup or salad and a beverage.
  
During the winter months a two piece ensemble performs jazz, Klezemer or Israeli music regularly on the weekends, transforming this casual and unassuming family eatery into a "nightspot." There is no stage, just a single spot light, lighting up a corner in front of the second of the two rooms, which marks the performance area.Reservations at these times are highly recommended. A seating capacity: approx. 20 in the first room and 60 inthe inner room Service is friendly and accommodating.
 
    
Restaurant: River Delight 
 
Address: 3534 Johnson Avenue 
(bet. West 235th Street & West 236th Street)
 
Telephone: (718) 543-4270 
  
Hechsher: Vaad of Riverdale (Glatt Kosher) 
 
Hours: Mon-Thurs: 10am-10pm     Fri: 9am-3:30pm 
Sat: (Oct.-May) 1 hr after Shabbos till 1am
Sun: 11am-10pm (after Oct.)
 
Prices: Entrees: $9.95-$15.95    Sandwiches: $5.25-$9.95 
 
Charge Cards Accepted: MC, Visa, AmEx, Transmedia 
  
Dining Guide Restaurant Discount: 10% (One Time) 
excluding holidays & weekends  
 
 
Bela Flom is the author of:
The Authoritative
New York City Kosher Dining Guide
 
 
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