The ground floor dining room features a glass showcase, displaying various cuts of extravagantly priced meat, as you enter. The bar follows, immediately leading you to a staircase, and generally to a larger dining room in the rear. In this back dining area, seating along the walls is banquette style, and individual tables and chairs fill the center of the room. Crowded together, the tables are covered with white tablecloths and topped with white butcher’s paper. The stairs ascend to a second dining room with a more formal, private club atmosphere. The upstairs is characterized by mahogany paneling and leather chairs. Our meal began with two appetizers, the Portobello fumé et grillé ($8.25) and the Friand de Veau aux Champignons ($8.75). The Portobello, described on the menu simply as smoked and grilled portobello mushrooms, turned out to be a spinach salad with slices of the portobello mushrooms interspersed within it. I would have liked more mushroom, but the salad which was light and delicately seasoned was pleasant enough. The Friand de Veau, veal turnover served with mushroom sauce, was likewise flavorful and skillfully seasoned, but was a true appetizer and could not be mistaken for a small entrée. For our entrées we ordered the Salade de poulet grillé ($14.95) and the steak au poivre, frites ($23.50). That the Salade de poulet grillé was a mistake was evident immediately. The salade was essentially the same that had been served in the portobello appetizer (except for a few pieces of tomato thrown in) and the slices of chicken breast were very dry. The steak au poivre, which had been ordered medium rare, was overdone and not as tender as it should have been. Both dishes were sent back and, it should be noted, were taken back graciously. Herein lies the true test of a good restaurant: its desire to please its customers. We ordered different entrées. This time my companion opted for La Surprise (what isn’t?) ($23.50). I, wanting to steer clear of another salad, chose La côte de veau ($29.50). La Surprise, which is described simply as the "butcher’s cut," turned out to be a thick but small square of steak (a fillet mignon want-to-be). This time the order was correctly prepared, medium rare, as requested. The meat was tender and of good quality. The fries, which had been freshly made with the first order, this time arrived reheated. The côte de veau, a single veal chop, was served with mashed potato and spinach. The veal was tender and made perfectly well. My only complaint is in the size of the portion. I suspect that a hungry diner with a large appetite could come away feeling unsatiated. The side dishes complemented the meat well enough and did not compete for attention. By this time it was twelve midnight and although admittedly we were not being pressed to leave, we did not want to hurry through dessert and so, we didn’t order any. However, a quick look at the dessert menu leaves no doubt that we would not have been disappointed. Though not extensive, the menu includes enough variety to satisfy the sweet cravings of most noshers. The wine list offers a respectable choice of wines, scotch, single malts, beers and whiskeys. Beers and single malts are particularly well represented. The selection of wines favor the Baron Herzog collection, but also include a few choices from the Weinstock Cellars. So, do I recommend Le Marais? My inclination is to say yes. Its proximity to the theater district, its late closing time, its attractive atmosphere, its generally high quality food, and its amenable attitude, make Le Marais a desirable option for kosher diners. True, it is pricey, but for a uniquely pleasant evening with French charm, Le Marais provides all the ingredients for an enjoyable dining experience. Restaurant: Le Marais Address: 150 W. 46th Street (bet. Sixth Avenue & Seventh Avenue) Telephone: (212) 869-0900 Facsimilie: (212) 869-1016 Hechsher: OK Labs (Glatt Kosher, Chassidishe Shechita) Hours: Sun-Thur: 12pm-12am Fri: 12pm-3pm Sat: Opens 1 hr after Shabbos till 1am Prices: Entrées are $14.50-$29.50 Charge Cards Accepted: MC, Visa, AmEx, Diners Club Handicap Info: Ground floor dining room about 3 steps below street level. Bathrooms located on basement level. |
